Congrats to our client Megan on the closing of her beautiful new home!!
Just like new inside, with a shop!
Price to Sell! $149,900
Call 360-219-6519 to schedule a showing
Move in ready! 2 bdrm/2bath home with a shop and a heatpump! New windows, cabinets, flooring. This quality constructed home has been tastefully remodeled throughout. You will enjoy the privacy that established landscaping and an oversized lot provides! On almost half acre, lined with bordering trees, firepit, even a shop for your projects. Enjoy the small town life, close to town, but still have room for gardening and pets. Metal roof on both shop and home, designed to last!
3 bedroom rambler, clean and move in ready! Lots of updates and extras. Brand new roof and vinyl windows. Large great room for entertaining. Covered outdoor space and a private fenced back yard on a double lot! Plenty of room for gardening and pets. Large double bay attached garage/shop. Enjoy the small town life in Napavine. Walking distance to town and schools.
Privacy & seclusion, this 2,200 sqft 6 bdrm 3 bath home is situated on an acre of flat and usable property, surrounded by over 1000+ acres of designated forest land. Extremely well maintained, upgrades include, custom cabinets, quartz counters, stainless steel appliances, wetbar and new decks. Need more? This home has a separate 2 bdrm, 2 bath 1,100 sqft apartment with laundry. 36×48” Shop, with 3 storage areas, elevator lift, even has its own laundry facilities and RV hookup. Amazing views $300,000 Call to schedule a showing
NEW TODAY – Spectacular! 3010 Sqft – Newer 4 bdrm farm house. 9.84 Acres with 4128 Shop, and a 4 Stall barn! Fenced pastures for goats and horse, round pen, tack room, hay storage. Gourmet kitchen includes granite counters, stainless steel appliances, custom cabinets and hardwood floors. Open floor plan, great room with gas rock fireplace, and lots of natural lighting. Attached 2 car garage.
Call to schedule 360-219-6519
A French drain, or curtain drain, removes excess surface water so you won’t need hip boots to cut the grass.
A French drain, sometimes called a curtain drain, is a simple system with no moving parts — gravity removes excess water from problem areas in your yard. Give gravity a chance to do its job by making sure your French drain design has the proper slope from beginning to end.
Which End is Up?
The two ends of a French drain system are:
- The drain field, or high end, where excess ground water enters the drain pipes
- The drain exit, or lowest point, where water leaves the system
A French drain needs a slope of no less than 1%. That means from the highest point of the drain field all the way to the drain exit, the system should slope at least 1 inch for every 8 feet of length.
Start with Your Exit Strategy
Select a location on your property for the drain exit. The goal is to move water away from your house and foundation, or from the soaked part of your yard, to a drier area.
Good locations for drain exits:
- A grassy slope that’s exposed to the sun for most of the day. Grasses help absorb moisture and the sun aids evaporation.
- A spot closest to your problem area so you can keep the system as short as possible, saving costs.
- The street, so it can be carried away by your municipal storm drain system. But check with your local building department first.
Don’t locate the drain exit:
- Where runoff is directed toward a neighbor’s yard.
- Where the water could run onto a sidewalk or driveway and turn to ice during freezing weather. Directing drainage toward pavement often is a violation of building codes.
- Where runoff could cause erosion, such as a dirt slope with no protective vegetation.
Connecting to an Existing Drain Line
Some houses have rain gutters that empty into an underground drainage system, which ties into a municipal storm drain. Your French drain can tie into this system also.
Local codes might require a backflow valve that prevents water from backing up onto your property if a clog occurs downstream. Expect to pay about $500 for a plumber to install this device.
No Acceptable Exit Point
If you can’t find a good place for your system to drain, you’ll need to empty your system into a dry well. A dry well is a vertical hole, typically about 4 feet deep and 1 foot in diameter, that’s filled with gravel. A dry well lets excess water be absorbed by the surrounding soils.
Determining Proper Slope
If your yard is sloped, it may be easy to spot the high point (drain field) and low points (drain exit) for your system.
If you’re not sure, use a line level to determine slope:
- Pound a stake into the problem area and another at a possible exit point.
- Tie a mason’s string to the stakes.
- Put a line level on the string. Pull the string taut and level.
- Measure the distance from the string to the ground at the stakes, and calculate the drainage slope.
Remember, you can add some slope when you install your system by digging the trench progressively deeper.
Using a Professional to Determine Slope
A surveyor, civil engineer, or landscape contractor will use a tripod-mounted transit level to help you determine the slope you’ll need for your system and possible exit points. Expect to pay $150 to $250 for the service.
Route Around Roots and Utilities
- Plan to route your drain line around large trees to avoid cutting roots. Roots usually extend to the “drip line” of the tree — the outmost edge of its branches.
- Call 811, the Call Before You Dig hotline, to have the location of underground utility lines marked on your property. You want to check not only in areas where the drain will live but also where you might dig a dry well. This is a free service.
From mortgage interest to property tax deductions, here are the tax tips you need to get a jump on your returns.
Owning a home can pay off at tax time.
Take advantage of these home ownership-related tax deductions and strategies to lower your tax bill:
Mortgage Interest Deduction
One of the neatest deductions itemizing homeowners can take advantage of is the mortgage interest deduction, which you claim on Schedule A. To get the mortgage interest deduction, your mortgage must be secured by your home — and your home can be a house, trailer, or boat, as long as you can sleep in it, cook in it, and it has a toilet.
Interest you pay on a mortgage of up to $1 million — or $500,000 if you’re married filing separately — is deductible when you use the loan to buy, build, or improve your home.
If you take on another mortgage (including a second mortgage, home equity loan, or home equity line of credit) to improve your home or to buy or build a second home, that counts towards the $1 million limit.
If you use loans secured by your home for other things — like sending your kid to college — you can still deduct the interest on loans up $100,000 ($50,000 for married filing separately) because your home secures the loan.
Prepaid Interest Deduction
Prepaid interest (or points) you paid when you took out your mortgage is generally 100% deductible in the year you paid it along with other mortgage interest.
If you refinance your mortgage and use that money for home improvements, any points you pay are also deductible in the same year.
But if you refinance to get a better rate or shorten the length of your mortgage, or to use the money for something other than home improvements, such as college tuition, you’ll need to deduct the points over the life of your mortgage. Say you refi into a 10-year mortgage and pay $3,000 in points. You can deduct $300 per year for 10 years.
So what happens if you refi again down the road?
Example: Three years after your first refi, you refinance again. Using the $3,000 in points scenario above, you’ll have deducted $900 ($300 x 3 years) so far. That leaves $2,400, which you can deduct in full the year you complete your second refi. If you paid points for the new loan, the process starts again; you can deduct the points over the life of the loan.
Home mortgage interest and points are reported on Schedule A of IRS Form 1040.
Your lender will send you a Form 1098 that lists the points you paid. If not, you should be able to find the amount listed on the HUD-1 settlement sheet you got when you closed the purchase of your home or your refinance closing.
Property Tax Deduction
You can deduct on Schedule A the real estate property taxes you pay. If you have a mortgage with an escrow account, the amount of real estate property taxes you paid shows up on your annual escrow statement.
If you bought a house this year, check your HUD-1 settlement statement to see if you paid any property taxes when you closed the purchase of your house. Those taxes are deductible on Schedule A, too.
PMI and FHA Mortgage Insurance Premiums
You can deduct the cost of private mortgage insurance (PMI) as mortgage interest on Schedule A if you itemize your return. The change only applies to loans taken out in 2007 or later.
What’s PMI? If you have a mortgage but didn’t put down a fairly good-sized down payment (usually 20%), the lender requires the mortgage be insured. The premium on that insurance can be deducted, so long as your income is less than $100,000 (or $50,000 for married filing separately).
If your adjusted gross income is more than $100,000, your deduction is reduced by 10% for each $1,000 ($500 in the case of a married individual filing a separate return) that your adjusted gross income exceeds $100,000 ($50,000 in the case of a married individual filing a separate return). So, if you make $110,000 or more, you can’t claim the deduction (10% x 10 = 100%).
Besides private mortgage insurance, there’s government insurance from FHA, VA, and the Rural Housing Service. Some of those premiums are paid at closing, and deducting them is complicated. A tax adviser or tax software program can help you calculate this deduction. Also, the rules vary between the agencies.
Vacation Home Tax Deductions
The rules on tax deductions for vacation homes are complicated. Do yourself a favor and keep good records about how and when you use your vacation home.
- If you’re the only one using your vacation home (you don’t rent it out for more than 14 days a year), you deduct mortgage interest and real estate taxes on Schedule A.
- Rent your vacation home out for more than 14 days and use it yourself fewer than 15 days (or 10% of total rental days, whichever is greater), and it’s treated like a rental property. Your expenses are deducted on Schedule E.
- Rent your home for part of the year and use it yourself for more than the greater of 14 days or 10% of the days you rent it and you have to keep track of income, expenses, and allocate them based on how often you used and how often you rented the house.
Homebuyer Tax Credit
This isn’t a deduction, but it’s important to keep track of if you claimed it in 2008.
There were federal first-time homebuyer tax credits in 2008, 2009, and 2010.
If you claimed the homebuyer tax credit for a purchase made after April 8, 2008, and before Jan. 1, 2009, you must repay 1/15th of the credit over 15 years, with no interest.
The IRS has a tool you can use to help figure out what you owe each year until it’s paid off. Or if the home stops being your main home, you may need to add the remaining unpaid credit amount to your income tax on your next tax return.
Generally, you don’t have to pay back the credit if you bought your home in 2009, 2010, or early 2011. The exception: You have to repay the full credit amount if you sold your house or stopped using it as primary residence within 36 months of the purchase date. Then you must repay it with your tax return for the year the home stopped being your principal residence.
The repayment rules are less rigorous for uniformed service members, Foreign Service workers, and intelligence community workers who got sent on extended duty at least 50 miles from their principal residence.
The Nonbusiness Energy Tax Credit lets you claim a credit for installing energy-efficient home systems. Tax credits are especially valuable because they let you offset what you owe the IRS dollar for dollar, in this case, for up to 10% of the amount you spent on certain upgrades.
The credit carries a lifetime cap of $500 (less for some products), so if you’ve used it in years past, you’ll have to subtract prior tax credits from that $500 limit. Lucky for you, there’s no cap on how much you’ll save on utility bills thanks to your energy-efficiency upgrades.
Among the upgrades that might qualify for the credit:
File IRS Form 5695 with your return.
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