Congrats to our client Megan on the closing of her beautiful new home!!
Start packing! This 2366 sqft home has 4 bedrooms 2 1/2 baths and is move in ready! Extremely well maintained, like new! Lots of extras added; Heat pump, shop, gas fire place and a extra large covered back patio area for your outdoor entertaining. Open floor plan, large bonus room upstairs. All on a fully fenced private corner lot with a shop in back! Enjoy living in an established residential neighborhood and still have a shop for your projects.
[srp_profile lat=”” lng=”” address=”196″ city=”Chehalis” state=”WA” zip_code=”98532″]
[/srp_profile][schoolsearch city=”Chehalis” state=”WA” groupby=”schooldistrictname” output=”table”]
$195,000 | 3 BEDROOMS | 2 (2 full ) BATHROOMS | 1080 SQUARE FEET
Immaculate and well maintained! 3 bdrms 2 baths, an open floor plan and vaulted ceilings gives this home its spaciousness. Privacy and Wilderness! Located at the end of Oppelt Rd, this fully fenced 5 acre parcel is surrounded by 1000s + acres of Weyerhaeuser forest land. Outbuildings include a new 2 car garage and a full height RV storage shop, Detached extra building for hobbies or guests with a loft. Raised gardens and with a planting shed.
Photo by Stuart Miles - Image ID 100247789
If you’re thinking of selling your home, you may be fantasizing about the profit you’ll reap from the sale or calculating exactly how much you’ll need to pay off your current mortgage and have enough left over for a down payment on the next house.
Before your fantasies run amok you need to realize that, while you can estimate the value of your home in a variety of ways, the true value is only what a buyer will pay for it. That said, there are several ways to get a strong idea of how much a buyer will pay for the property in current market conditions.
What Your Home Isn’t Worth
Many homeowners find it confusing that there are various numbers floating around that indicate their home value. Here are a few:
Property tax assessment. Each jurisdiction uses a formula to establish home values for a tax assessment, but this price rarely correlates with the market value of your home. Your tax assessment can be higher or lower than the current market value.
Homeowners insurance value. Insurance estimates are based on the cost of replacing your home without the land, so this value is skewed compared to market value.
Mortgage balance. Your mortgage balance simply reflects your home loan. The difference between your loan payoff and the market value of your home is your equity.
Neighbor’s home value. Even if your neighbor’s home is similar to yours, it’s not likely to be identical. A REALTOR® can help you evaluate your home’s worth in the context of other nearby properties.
Cost when you purchased the home. Regardless of how long ago you purchased your property, the value can have gone up or down.
Desired value. You can always try to put your home on the market for your desired price, but if you’ve over- or under-priced it, you’re shortchanging yourself. because you’re either selling too low or your house could sit on the market and eventually sell for less than if you priced it correctly in the beginning.
Comparative Market Analysis
A REALTOR® can do a comparative market analysis with recent market data to help you estimate your home value. When you sell your home, an appraisal will be required by the buyers’ lender, so keep in mind that your home has to appraise for the selling price or, depending on how your contract is written, you’ll have to renegotiate the sale or the buyers will need to come up with extra cash.
A CMA is both an art and a science. While it’s based on data, it also requires local market knowledge and intuition about which homes to compare and how to interpret the prices. Most REALTORS® will look for recent sales of homes that are similar to yours, preferably within the past two or three months, up to about six months. In addition, a REALTOR® can look at other homes currently on the market and homes that didn’t sell that were taken off the market to compare values.
The comparison of your home with others should include not only the size and the number of bedrooms and baths, but also the condition of your home, the neighborhood and the proximity to amenities. If you do not understand the comparisons a REALTOR® is making, ask to see some of the homes currently on the market or look online at photos of the properties.
While it may be tempting to list your home with the REALTOR® who tells you it can sell at the highest price, a smarter way to sell your home is to price it as accurately as possible from the beginning. Studies show that an overpriced home that lingers on the market will end up selling for less than the estimated correct price.
Copyright NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. Reprinted with permission.
An average home loses up to 30% of its heating and cooling energy through air leaks. The most significant air leaks tend to occur around windows and doors. To stop air leaks and prevent your home heating and cooling dollars from vanishing in the wind, it’s important to seal any air leaks around windows and doors.
Check for air leaks
With windows and doors closed, hold a lit stick of incense near window and door frames where drafts might sneak in. Watch for smoke movement. Note what sources need caulk, sealant, and weather-stripping.
Seal air leaks around windows
If you have old windows, caulking and adding new weatherstripping goes a long way toward tightening them up.
Bronze weatherstripping ($12 for 17 feet) lasts for decades but is time-consuming to install.
Self-stick plastic types are easy to put on but don’t last very long.
Adhesive-backed EPDM rubber ($8 for 10 feet) is a good compromise, rated to last at least 10 years.
Nifty gadgets called pulley seals ($9 a pair) block air from streaming though the holes where cords disappear into the frames.
Seal air leaks around doors
Check for air leaks, and replace old door weatherstripping with new.
Foam-type tape has an adhesive backing; it’s inexpensive and easy to install. If it comes loose, reinforce it with staples.
Felt is either adhesive-backed or comes with flexible metal reinforcement. it must be tacked or glued into place. It’s cheap and easy to install, but it has low durability.
Tubular rubber, vinyl, and silicone weatherstripping is relatively expensive and tricky to install, but it provides an excellent seal. Some types come with a flange designed to fit into pre-cut grooves in the jambs of newer doors; check your existing weatherstripping and replace with a similar style.
Check exterior trim for any gaps between the trim and your door frames, and the trim and your siding. Caulk gaps with an exterior latex caulk ($5 for a 10-ounce tube).
Seal door bottoms
If a draft comes in at the bottom, check the condition of the threshold gasket. Replace worn gaskets. If you can see daylight under the door, you may need to install a new threshold with a taller gasket ($25 for a 36-inch door). Or, install a weather-resistant door sweep designed for exterior doors ($9). Door sweeps attach directly to the door and are easy to install.
By: Jeanne Huber